Valentino's New Designer Puts on Maximalist Paris Ready-to-Wear Debut

Thomas Adamson READ TIME: 11 MIN.

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Where McGirr truly shone, however, was in his eveningwear - an area that has become increasingly vital in the era of celebrity-driven fashion. The shimmering embroideries and featherlight silks, frayed and distressed in lilac georgette, signaled his understanding of red carpet glamour. The brushed white chiffon minidress, paired with a gold beaded and sequined jacket, made a convincing case for the designer's growing confidence. And when the silver chains traced the body's lines, their intricate embroidery brought a level of audacity that was finally worthy of McQueen.

The night's high point was a look of pure excess: an extreme gown embroidered with glistening silver chains that seemed to catch every glimmer of light in the venue. It was an ensemble that Daphne Guinness herself - who watched approvingly from the front row - might have worn in a heartbeat.

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Despite his strides, McGirr's sophomore effort still carried the weight of a designer learning the ropes of a storied brand.

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Akris: Where Utility Meets Minimalism

Akris' Sunday collection had the audience leaning in, not for any over-the-top spectacle, but for the luxurious subtleties that Albert Kriemler so masterfully crafts. The designer, true to form, took the trench coat idea - a staple of the wardrobe - and transformed it into something distinctly Akris. With utilitarian detailing threaded through every seam, this was an exercise in functional luxury, the kind that Kriemler has long perfected. His designs don't shout; they whisper.

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

The collection opened with takes on trenches, each reimagined to fuse practicality with fashion-forward flair. Minimalism, too, reigned supreme, with looks that kept embellishments at bay to let the craftsmanship shine. A flat, clean-cut fabric top paired with culottes nodded to the timeless Akris aesthetic - unfussy, luxurious, and quietly powerful. This was minimalism of the highest quality, a testament to Kriemler's commitment to making clothes that defy the viral trend, focusing instead on timeless appeal.

A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

by Thomas Adamson

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