At Paris Fashion Week, Hermes Menswear Has a Dash of Jockey-Style Boldness

Thomas Adamson READ TIME: 12 MIN.

Fashion designer Veronique Nichanian acknowledges applause after the presentation of the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

"I wanted this collection to be strong and energetic," Nichanian explained, her palette pivoting from deep browns and dark teals to flashes of tomato red and lemon yellow.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

The collection radiated warmth, both in spirit and texture. Fuzzy mohair coats, velvet varsity jackets and plush sheepskin outerwear wrapped models in an embrace that seemed designed to counter winter's chill.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

Layering was less pronounced this season, a deliberate move to retain sleek, streamlined silhouettes. Even gray pinstripe suits – pared back to essentials – eschewed bulk, echoing Nichanian's vision of men unencumbered as they race through life.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

Sweaters emerged as the collection's unsung heroes. Their bold chevrons and geometric patterns were lifted directly from the vibrant stripes of racing silks, a playful nod to Palais d'Iéna's soaring, angular architecture.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

A standout turtleneck, with its patchwork of triangles, rectangles, and squares in canary yellow, seemed to channel a nostalgic love for trigonometry.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

Elsewhere, a jacket with a shawl collar mirrored the same graphical bravado, rendered in cool tones of blue, black and white.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

Though grounded in classic tailoring, the collection celebrated irreverence. Nichanian's juxtaposition of tradition and innovation captured Hermès' ethos with a quiet confidence.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

Here, functionality was imbued with a touch of whimsy, proving once again that the maison's refinement can still surprise and delight. In a season steeped in nostalgia and geometry, Hermès delivered a collection that was, quite literally, off to the races.

A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler
A model wears a creation for the men's Hermes Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 25, 2025
Source: AP Photo/Michel Euler

by Thomas Adamson

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